One of the better places in the old town to eat properly Naxi food without paying tourist-trap prices. The menu features axel (a Naxi-style cured pork), stir-fried mountain mushrooms, and chicken slow-cooked with herbs foraged from the surrounding hills. The dining room is in a restored wooden courtyard house and the family who runs it has been cooking here for two generations. No English menu — pointing at what neighbouring tables are eating works well.