Pobitora Wildlife Sanctuary is one of India's most remarkable wildlife experiences per square kilometre. Established in 1987, its 38 square kilometres of alluvial grassland and wetland on the Brahmaputra floodplain support around 100 Indian one-horned rhinoceroses — the highest density of this species anywhere on earth. Add to that wild buffalo, swamp deer, wild boar, and a leopard population that is rarely seen but present, and you have a sanctuary that punches well above its modest size.
Jeep safaris run in the early morning and late afternoon, when animals are most active near the water holes. The landscape is classic floodplain: tall elephant grass interspersed with open areas of cropped grass where rhinos graze, and seasonal wetlands that attract large numbers of migratory birds between November and March. The best time to visit is November through March, when the grass is shorter after burning and sightings are easiest. Summer and the monsoon months are less rewarding for wildlife viewing.
Entry fees are modest by Indian standards. Jeep hire is arranged at the main gate; it is worth specifying that you want a full circuit of the sanctuary rather than a short loop. Elephant rides have been offered but availability varies year to year depending on Forest Department policy.