São Tomé sits just east of Fontainhas, divided from it by the wedge of land around the Maruti Temple. The quarter is older and shabbier than its better-known twin — the same Portuguese-era houses with iron balconies, but less restored and less aggressively painted. The 1849 Chapel of São Tomé sits at one end, and the rest is a maze of small lanes and alleys, with most of the activity concentrated around the small São Tomé square at sunset.
The square in front of the chapel hosts an evening drinking culture that has become a Panaji fixture — Goa's oldest bar, Joseph Bar, sits on one corner, and several other small places have grown up around it. The locals stand and drink on the cobbled square outside until the small hours.