Kuttichira is the old Mappila Muslim heart of the city — a dense, low-rise neighbourhood of pastel houses and narrow lanes around a great rectangular tank. Several of the houses date to the 16th and 17th centuries and are extended-family compounds with intricately carved timber-and-stucco facades.
Three of Kerala's oldest mosques — Mishkhal, Muchunti and Jama'at — stand within five minutes' walk of the tank. Walk through respectfully; this is a living neighbourhood, not a museum. Hospitality is generous and a stop for sulaimani (sweet black tea) and pazhampori (banana fritters) at one of the kunjipathiri cafes will give you more of a feel for the place than any list of sights.