Kozhikode is not a place of monumental sights — most of the medieval Zamorin city is long gone, swept away by Portuguese cannon, fire and time. What survives is a city in love with its own history and food. Walk the beach at sunset, eat your way through SM Street and the seafood lanes around the railway station, and use Kozhikode as a base for the spice country and the cooler air of Wayanad.