Meenakshi Amman Temple

The great twin-deity temple at the heart of Madurai

The Meenakshi Amman Temple is the religious and emotional centre of Madurai. The complex covers 14 acres and is built around twin shrines: one to Meenakshi, the fish-eyed goddess and a form of Parvati, and one to her consort Sundareswarar, a form of Shiva. The current buildings date mostly to the Nayak dynasty in the 16th and 17th centuries, but the site is much older and is mentioned in Tamil poetry from over two thousand years ago.

Enter early — before 9am if possible — and allow at least two hours. Highlights include the Hall of a Thousand Pillars (now partly a museum), the painted ceilings of the inner corridors, and the golden lotus tank in front of Meenakshi's shrine. The two main shrines themselves are open only to Hindus. Cameras must be left at the entry; phones are usually allowed but no photography is permitted inside.

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The temple's nine gopurams are encrusted with somewhere around 33,000 painted stucco figures — a sea of gods, demons and heavenly bus drivers in every shade of pink, blue and ochre. A team of artisans repaints the entire complex by hand every twelve years; the last full repainting was completed in 2009.