Swarg Ashram is the bohemian heart of tourist Rishikesh — a neighbourhood on the east bank of the Ganges running from just above Ram Jhula north toward Laxman Jhula. The area is pedestrian-only (no motorised vehicles), which gives it an unusually peaceful atmosphere for an area this busy, and the lanes wind between ashrams, yoga studios, cafes, and bookshops.
This is where most foreign visitors spend most of their time: the rooftop cafes with views over the river, the second-hand bookshops specialising in yoga and philosophy texts, the tiny restaurants serving thalis and chai to a mix of pilgrims, long-stay yogis, and backpackers. The east bank ghats here are lined with ashrams of varying age and purpose. In the early morning, the whole strip is quiet enough to hear the river. By midday, it is considerably busier.