Pottery Workshops

The whole village is essentially one large open-air workshop. Walk any of the main lanes and you will see women sitting cross-legged in front of their houses, building up large water pots and rice jars by hand from coils of clay. There are no kick-wheels here — everything is shaped on a small turntable that is pushed by hand. Larger pieces are built over several days, with each new section added once the previous one has dried enough to support its weight.

The finished pots are unglazed and fired to a warm orange-red in open pit kilns, then sometimes burnished or wrapped in rattan basketwork to make the village's signature decorated pieces. Designs run from purely functional water vessels and cooking pots to large decorative jars covered in incised geometric patterns. The cooperatives at the entrance to the village have the widest selection and will arrange shipping for big pieces.

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A story
The Banyumulek style is built around a simple paradox: the pots are made by women, but only men are permitted to fire them. The kilns are open pits dug into the ground, lit with coconut husks and rice straw, and the firing temperature is controlled entirely by sight and smell — no thermometers. A bad firing can crack a week's work in seconds, which is why the men handle it.