Pantai Padang (Padang Beach)

The main beach running along the western edge of the city is a long strip of grey-black volcanic sand backed by a promenade with food stalls, cafés, and the inevitable beach vendors. It is not a swimming beach — the waves and currents make it unsuitable — but the sunsets here are excellent and the promenade fills with locals in the late afternoon and evening.

The seafood warungs along the beach road are worth the trip on their own: fresh fish, squid, and prawns grilled over charcoal and served with sambal and rice, eaten at plastic tables facing the water. It is one of the more pleasant versions of this kind of informal seaside dining in Sumatra, and the atmosphere — families, couples, teenagers, old men playing chess — gives a good picture of everyday Padang life.

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