Persian cuisine is one of the world's great cooking traditions, and one of the least known internationally. It is built on a philosophy of balance — sweet against sour, aromatic herbs against rich meat, saffron against pomegranate — rather than chili heat. A meal typically arrives with a basket of fresh herbs (sabzi khordan), flatbread, a bowl of yogurt, and small plates of pickles, all appearing automatically before the main dish.
What to eat
Chelo kebab is the canonical dish: tender skewers of minced lamb (koubideh) or marinated strips of lamb or chicken (barg, joujeh) served over a mound of saffron-topped white rice with a grilled tomato and a raw egg yolk. The rice — chelo — is itself a craft in Iran; the crust at the bottom of the pot, tahdig, is considered the best part and fought over affectionately.
Ghormeh sabzi is often called the national dish: a slow-cooked stew of herbs (dried fenugreek, parsley, and coriander), kidney beans, lamb, and dried limes (limu omani) that darken and intensify with cooking. It is deeply savory and unlike anything you have likely eaten.
Fesenjan combines ground walnuts and pomegranate paste into a thick, sweet-sour sauce cooked with duck or chicken. The combination sounds odd; it is extraordinary.
Ash reshteh is a thick soup of herbs, noodles, chickpeas, and kashk (a fermented whey), typically eaten during Nowruz and winter. Look for it in traditional tea houses.
Mirza ghasemi is a northern specialty from Gilan province: smoked eggplant cooked with tomatoes, garlic, and egg — simple and excellent.
Drinking
Alcohol is prohibited. The alternatives are better than you might expect. Iranian doogh (yogurt drink with mint and sometimes carbonated) is genuinely refreshing in the heat. Fresh-squeezed pomegranate juice is everywhere. Tea (chai) is the social lubricant of Iranian life: sweet, strong, served in small glasses, and offered constantly. Darbari tea houses and traditional coffee houses (qahveh khaneh) are good places to sit and watch the world.
Practicalities
Restaurants in Iran can be thin on the ground in smaller cities, where most eating happens at home. In major cities there is a range from traditional restaurants serving regional Persian cuisine to fast-food places doing pizza and sandwiches. Asking your hotel or host for recommendations usually yields better results than walking in anywhere. Vegetarians can manage — rice, herb dishes, and egg-based foods are available — but Iran is fundamentally a meat-eating culture and some effort is required. Note that restaurants often serve food until late; Iranians tend to eat dinner after 8pm.