Rasht Bazaar is the city's stomach and voice. The covered and open lanes sell Caspian fish, rice, garlic, olives, herbs, pickles, tea, fruit, and household goods, with vendors calling over one another in a rhythm that feels much closer to the Caucasus than to the desert bazaars of central Iran.
Go in the morning, when the fish stalls are busiest and the produce looks best. This is not a polished tourist market; it is a working one, damp underfoot in rainy weather and crowded around holidays. That is the point. If you want to understand why Rasht is famous for food, start here.