Hummus HaCarmel is one of the Old City's most reliable spots for a serious bowl of hummus — the kind served warm, with a pool of good olive oil, a handful of whole chickpeas, and little else. This is eating as the locals do it: a ceramic bowl, a stack of fresh pita, a side of raw onion and pickle, and nothing on the table to distract from the food.
Open from early morning until the hummus runs out, which is usually by early afternoon. Come for a late breakfast or early lunch and you will be eating alongside market traders, university staff, and the odd soldier in from a nearby base.