Katayamazu Onsen

The third and youngest of Kaga's hot spring towns, Katayamazu sits on the shore of Shibayama Lagoon, a brackish lake that opens to the Sea of Japan. The springs were discovered in 1653 when fishermen noticed steam rising from the lake bed. Today the resort lines the western shore with a row of large ryokan and a public bath, the Sojiyu, designed in 2012 by Kengo Kuma in his characteristic timber-screen style.

A waterfront promenade runs between the bathhouse and the marina, with views across the lagoon to Mount Hakusan on clear days. The lake is fished commercially for shijimi clams, and most ryokan serve them in the evening miso soup. A boat tour circles the lagoon in summer and points out the wading birds — Katayamazu is on a major migration route and draws birdwatchers in spring and autumn.

things to do sight