Most travelers reach Tsuyama by train from Okayama on the JR Tsuyama Line, usually in about an hour. The line is slower than Japan's main intercity routes, but it is direct and brings you close to the old centre.
There are also highway buses from Osaka and Kyoto, plus road access via the Chugoku Expressway. If you are stringing together smaller Chugoku towns, a car makes side trips easier, but it is not needed for the core sights.