Andy's Shin Hinomoto occupies a cramped, steam-filled spot built directly into the brick arches under the Yamanote line tracks at Yurakucho, a few minutes from Ginza. It has been run since 1996 by Andy Munro, a Scotsman who took over a decades-old izakaya and kept the original Japanese cooks, the handwritten menu, and the no-nonsense counter seating — while becoming, almost by accident, one of the few izakayas in Tokyo where English is spoken fluently and visitors are made to feel instantly at ease.
The food is the real reason to go: excellent fresh sashimi and grilled fish bought directly from Tsukiji-trained suppliers, plus solid yakitori, tofu, and seasonal small plates. Trains rumble overhead every few minutes, the room is loud and narrow, and regulars and first-timers end up sharing the same long counter. Arrive early or expect to wait — it doesn't take reservations for small groups.