Fumio Kondo is widely regarded as the greatest tempura chef working today. His restaurant on the ninth floor of a Ginza building has been serving his distinctive style — lighter batter than traditional tempura, longer frying times, a particular focus on vegetables — for decades. The result is tempura that seems to transform each ingredient rather than merely coat it.
The set lunches (from ¥8,000) are the most accessible way in. Book weeks ahead. A meal here is expensive but not extravagant relative to the level of skill on display. This is one of the great dining experiences in Tokyo.