The inner wholesale market moved to Toyosu in 2018, but the outer market — the rows of retail stalls, seafood restaurants, and specialist food shops around the old site — remains and is as good as ever. Come between 7 and 10am for the best experience: fresh tuna sashimi on rice, grilled king crab legs, oysters, tamagoyaki (rolled omelette) warm from the pan, and the best dashi you will find anywhere.
This is the proper Tokyo breakfast: standing at a market stall, eating with chopsticks, paying very little. The quality is exceptional because the stalls buy direct from the wholesalers every morning. Subway: Tsukijishijo (Oedo line) or Tsukiji (Hibiya line).