Under the elevated Yamanote Line tracks between Yurakucho and Shimbashi stations, a string of yakitori restaurants occupies the arches — cramped, smoky, noisy with office workers unwinding after work. This is the authentic post-work drinking and eating culture of Tokyo at its most vivid.
The yakitori (grilled chicken skewers: breast, thigh, wing, skin, liver, gizzard, neck) arrives fresh from the charcoal grill. Order Asahi or Kirin draft beer. Order more skewers. This costs almost nothing and is one of the most enjoyable evenings Tokyo offers. The cluster between exits A2 and A4 of Yurakucho station is the best-known. No reservations, no English menus — just point and indicate quantities with fingers.