Sengan-en

Shimazu clan villa garden with the volcano as borrowed scenery

Sengan-en — sometimes called Iso-teien — was built in 1658 as a seaside retreat for the Shimazu daimyo and remained their main residence after they lost their castle in the Meiji period. The 50,000-square-metre stroll garden uses the bay as its pond and Sakurajima as its mountain, an idea so audacious that no other garden in Japan has copied it convincingly. Bamboo groves, a waterfall, a small bamboo grove and a Chinese-style stone gate fill the landscape in close quarters.

The Shoko Shuseikan museum behind the garden is a separate ticket but worth it: this is the surviving stone reverberatory furnace and machine works that the Shimazu built in the 1850s to produce iron cannon, glass and cotton — the first Western-style industrial complex in Japan, and now part of the UNESCO Sites of Japan's Meiji Industrial Revolution listing. The complex is about twenty minutes by city-loop bus from Tenmonkan; the closer Sengan-en JR station now stops here as well.

things to do sight garden
A story
Sengan-en is one of the only Japanese gardens designed to be looked outward from rather than inward into — the Shimazu lords aligned the central pond and the residence so that Sakurajima itself stands in for the conventional mountain backdrop. In 1865 nineteen young Satsuma samurai were smuggled out of the harbour below this garden to study in Britain, in defiance of the shogun's ban on travel; their statue is in front of Kagoshima-Chuo station.

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