The classic Kumamoto basashi experience is in one of the small specialists on the side alleys off Shimotōri — Banryo and Suganoya are two long-standing names with branches in the centre, serving raw horse meat in a dozen different cuts (lean, marbled, mane, liver), each with its own pairing of grated ginger, garlic, and dipping sauce.
Order an assortment plate to start and a glass of cold local sake. Most places also offer cooked horse-meat dishes — sakura nabe (a hot pot) is the standout — and the menus are picture-led for non-Japanese diners.