Kumamoto ramen — a rich tonkotsu broth, thicker noodles than Hakata's, finished with mayu, the burnt-garlic oil that is the style's signature — is best eaten at one of the local chains. Komurasaki, the oldest, has been open since 1954 and the original Shimotōri branch is still the place to go. Keika is the other big name, also with a Shimotōri shop.
A bowl costs around 800 yen. Add a soft-boiled egg and an extra plate of marinated chashu pork. Open from lunchtime through late evening; queues at peak hours.