A short side alley off Shimotōri, lined with tiny standing-bars (kakuuchi), grilled-skewer shops, and small izakaya. The atmosphere from about seven in the evening is busy without being chaotic, and the food is consistently good — most places do a strong line in grilled offal, basashi, and locally produced shōchū.
Bars are mostly six or seven seats deep. Open the noren curtain, slide into a free space, and order the master's recommended starter (omakase de — "leave it to the master").