About two hours south of Tokushima City on the coast, Hiwasa is a small town with a couple of compelling reasons to stop. The train station rents bicycles, but Hiwasa is small enough to explore comfortably on foot.
The biggest draw is Yakuōji Temple, number 23 on the Shikoku pilgrimage circuit. The temple is built on two levels, both with good views down over Hiwasa and out over the ocean. The first level has a small carp pond and a gong to strike for good health; the second has a distinctive orange tower. Pay the small fee to walk down into the pitch-black tunnel beneath the temple — grope your way through the darkness, as through the life it symbolises, until you reach the lit room at the end with an illustrated scroll showing the stages of life from birth to death to dust.
In June, loggerhead turtles come ashore to lay eggs on the local beaches, which are then restricted. The Sea Turtle Museum has interesting displays and videos (mostly in Japanese), indoor tanks with hatchlings, and outdoor pools with larger turtles. The museum hatches and releases turtles into the wild as part of a conservation programme.
Seasonal events include an Iron Man contest and the Ise Ebi Lobster Festival, a nod to the local fishing industry.