Temple of Bacchus

The Temple of Bacchus is smaller than its neighbour but far better preserved, and many visitors find it the more beautiful of the two. Almost the entire outer colonnade survives, with 42 of the original 46 columns still standing, their Corinthian capitals remarkably intact. Walk the full circuit of the outer portico before going inside — the carved friezes are extraordinarily detailed, with vine scrolls, birds, insects, and mythological figures covering almost every surface.

The interior is entered from the east end via a grand staircase and through a doorway whose carved decoration rivals anything in the Roman world. Inside, the cella is lined with engaged columns and niched walls that would once have held cult statues. The coffered ceiling of the doorway is partially intact and gives a sense of the original richness.

From the temple's southern side you get the best view of the massive foundation stones of the Temple of Jupiter next door — an unexpected reminder of the engineering scale that underpins everything here.

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Despite being called the Temple of Bacchus, scholars debate whether it was actually dedicated to the wine god. Some believe it was a temple to Venus, or even a mystery cult. Its famous carved keystone — a nearly free-hanging wedge above the main doorway, seemingly on the verge of falling for two centuries — was a favourite subject for 18th-century European travellers who were convinced they were documenting imminent collapse. It is still there.

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