Torino Express is the tiny, standing-room-only bar that started Mar Mikhael's transformation into a nightlife district. Barely six metres wide, with a long brass counter and a window onto Armenia Street, it is the bar everyone ends up in at least once a night.
The crowd is a mix of artists, journalists, expats and curious passers-by. Drinks are basic and inexpensive; the atmosphere does the rest. It opens early evening and stays loud until very late.