Food

Maldivian food — Dhivehi cuisine — is built on three things: tuna, coconut, and rice. The influence of Sri Lanka and India is obvious: curries, roshi (flatbread similar to chapati), and spiced fish preparations dominate. It's not sophisticated cuisine, but it's honest and satisfying.

Mas huni is the national breakfast: shredded smoked tuna mixed with grated coconut, onion, and chilli, eaten with roshi. Get it at any local teahouse (known as a sai hotaa) for a dollar or two. It's good. Garudiya is a clear tuna broth served with rice, lime, onion, and fresh chilli on the side — the Maldivian equivalent of a bowl of soup. Dhon riha is a richer tuna curry made with coconut milk, used for main meals. Gulha — small fried dumplings stuffed with tuna and coconut — are the go-to street snack.

If you're on a resort, you'll probably eat international buffets with a Maldivian section, which is fine but not the real thing. To eat properly, get to Malé or a local island. The sai hotaa (teahouses) around the fish market in Malé serve breakfast and lunch for pocket money. The fish market itself is worth a visit at dawn when the tuna comes in.

Seafood elsewhere in the country is excellent but expensive. Resorts charge resort prices for lobster and grilled fish; they know you're not going anywhere else for dinner. If you're on a full-board package, the food is generally very good — the large resort chains employ serious chefs. If you're paying à la carte, pace yourself.

Vegetarians and vegans have a harder time. Maldivian food is fish-forward and the assumption is that everyone eats it. Resorts cater well, but on local islands options are limited. Bring your own snacks if you have strict dietary requirements and are island-hopping.

Alcohol is available only at resorts. On local islands and in Malé, you will not find it. The default drink everywhere is sweet black tea or coconut water straight from the shell — both excellent.