The riverside face of Mawlamyaing — a long strip of colonial-era buildings in brick and stucco, some crumbling handsomely, some recently painted, all at a human scale that puts the grand riverside streets of Yangon to shame. The old covered market occupies the centre of the waterfront; around it, tea shops, Indian restaurants, and small shops spill out onto the pavement in the chaotic, sociable way of Burmese market towns.
The waterfront is best in the morning, when the river traffic is busiest and the light is good. Ferries leave from the main jetty for Bilu Island and for points north and south on the river. The old British administrative buildings around the courthouse, set back slightly from the water, are worth a look if you have a few extra minutes.