Myanmar is one of Southeast Asia's most remarkable countries — and one of its most troubled. Ancient temple cities, floating villages, golden pagodas, and extraordinary landscapes make it genuinely compelling for travellers. But the military coup of February 2021 changed everything. The country is now in a civil war, tourist arrivals have collapsed, and most Western governments advise against all travel.
That context matters before you read anything else here.
The core tourist circuit — Yangon, Bagan, Mandalay, Inle Lake — remains accessible and sees a modest flow of visitors, mainly from China, Thailand, and a handful of independent Western travellers who've made a deliberate choice to go. Hsipaw, once a popular Shan State trekking base, needs much more caution now. Outside the core circuit, large parts of the country are active conflict zones. Rakhine, Shan, Kachin, Kayah, Chin, Sagaing, and Magway regions all have ongoing fighting.
If you do go: every dollar you spend funds the junta to some degree. Visa fees (currently $50) go to the military. Entry fees to Bagan and Inle Lake go to the military. All businesses pay government taxes. You can minimise how much reaches the generals — eat at local teahouses, stay at family-run guesthouses, avoid state enterprises — but you can't eliminate it. That's a decision each traveller has to make for themselves.
The people of Myanmar are not their government. Locals in the tourist circuit are often quietly glad to see foreign visitors, both for the income and for the implicit message that the outside world hasn't forgotten them. Just don't put them in danger by discussing politics carelessly.
Entry: E-visa required for most nationalities, applied for online. The process takes a few working days. Visa on arrival is available only for Chinese and Indian passport holders. You must show proof of accommodation on entry.
Money: ATMs are unreliable and often out of cash. Credit cards are rarely accepted. Bring US dollars in clean, unfolded bills — exchange to kyat at hotels or money changers. The black market rate that travellers exploited for decades is largely gone; the official rate is now the practical rate.
Internet: Facebook and many social media platforms are blocked. Use a VPN. Internet is slow and monitored.
Healthcare: Medical facilities are very limited outside Yangon. Evacuation insurance is essential if you're venturing beyond the main cities.
