Bhaktapur Durbar Square

The royal palace complex of the Malla kings, largely unchanged since the 17th century

Bhaktapur Durbar Square is the ceremonial and political centre of the old city — a complex of temples, shrines, courtyards, and palace buildings accumulated over several centuries of Malla dynasty rule. The square is entered through a gate off the main road, and a ticket is required for foreign visitors; the revenue goes toward restoration work that has been ongoing since the 2015 earthquake.

The main elements are the Royal Palace to the north, the 55-Window Palace facing south, the Golden Gate entrance to the inner palace courtyard, and a dense clustering of temples and shrines around the central space. It is possible to spend two hours here without seeing everything, and the light in the late afternoon, when it catches the carved wood and gilded metal, is particularly good.

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The 1934 Nepal–Bihar earthquake destroyed many of Bhaktapur's buildings, but the Durbar Square was largely spared. The more devastating event was the 2015 Gorkha earthquake, which collapsed several important structures including the Vatsala Temple and damaged others. Reconstruction has proceeded slowly; some scaffolding remains. The ticket price (charged to foreigners at the main entrance) contributes to ongoing restoration, which is among the more complex heritage reconstruction projects in Asia.

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