Bhaktapur is one of the three royal cities in the Kathmandu Valley, and arguably the most atmospheric. The old centre is closed to motor vehicles, which gives its squares and alleys a calm that Kathmandu itself has long since lost. Known as the City of Devotees, Bhaktapur was the valley's capital before power shifted to Kathmandu in the early 17th century, and its Durbar Square still bristles with multi-roofed Newari temples, palace buildings, and the famous Golden Gate.
You can reach Bhaktapur easily by bus from Kathmandu, or by bicycle if you do not mind sharing the road with trucks for the first stretch. The air freshens as you leave the capital behind, and rice paddies and trees begin to replace the urban sprawl. The town is also the pottery centre of the Kathmandu Valley — at Potter's Square you can watch potters at their wheels making bowls, jugs, and elaborate figurines.