The hilltop fortress-palace that was home to the Shah dynasty before the conquest of Kathmandu stands at 1,500 metres above Gorkha Bazaar. The complex combines a formidable stone fortress with the Gorakhnath temple — dedicated to the tutelary deity of the Shahs — and the Kalika temple, a triple-roofed structure whose inner sanctum non-Hindus cannot enter. The outer courtyards, battlements and panoramic terraces are open to all.
The view from the ramparts on a clear morning is one of the finest in Nepal: the Annapurna and Manaslu ranges laid out in full, with Ganesh Himal to the east. The hike up from the bazaar takes 45 minutes on a stone staircase path; allow two hours to explore the complex properly. Go early to avoid midday haze and to have the terraces largely to yourself.