The cremation ghats along the Bagmati River are the spiritual heart of Pashupatinath. Arya Ghat, immediately downstream of the main temple bridge, is reserved for royalty and high-caste Hindus. Ordinary citizens are cremated at Bhasmeshvar Ghat, a short walk further downstream.
Watching the cremations from the opposite bank is accepted and normal — it is not intrusive in the way it might seem. Families conduct the ceremonies openly, and the ritual is central to the meaning of this place. The body is wrapped in white cloth and orange marigolds, carried to the stone platform, and the eldest son circles the pyre before lighting it. The process takes several hours. Early morning brings the best light and smaller crowds; late afternoon can be busy with both pilgrims and visitors.