The Neelum Valley stretches north from Muzaffarabad along the Neelum River into the high Himalayas, offering some of the most spectacular mountain scenery in Pakistan. The river runs clear and fast between forested slopes, and the villages along the valley — Keran, Sharda, Kel — become progressively more remote and more rewarding as you travel upstream.
The road north is the main reason to base yourself in Muzaffarabad. Kel, near the end of the driveable road, sits at around 2,000 meters with views of snow-capped peaks above. Check current conditions before heading out — the road can be affected by weather, landslides, and occasional security restrictions. A hired car and driver is the most practical option from Muzaffarabad.