Muzaffarabad is the capital of Azad Kashmir, sitting at the confluence of the Jhelum and Neelum rivers in a valley surrounded by forested mountains. The setting is spectacular — green hills rising steeply on all sides, the rivers rushing through the centre of town.
The city was devastated by the 2005 earthquake, which killed tens of thousands across the region. Much has been rebuilt since, though the scars are still visible. The Earthquake Memorial Bridge commemorates the disaster while serving as a practical crossing of the Jhelum. The Red Fort, a Mughal-era structure overlooking the rivers, survived partially and is worth a visit for its views.
Muzaffarabad is the gateway to the Neelum Valley, one of the most beautiful valleys in Pakistan. The road north along the river leads to Keran, Sharda, and Kel — progressively more remote and more rewarding. Travellers should check current security and entry requirements before visiting, as foreign nationals may need special permission to enter Azad Kashmir.