Rabaul sits at the edge of one of the world's most active volcanic calderas, on the northeastern tip of New Britain island. It was once the most elegant colonial town in the South Pacific — broad avenues, leafy gardens, and a magnificent deepwater harbour that made it the administrative centre of German New Guinea and later Australian-governed PNG. On 19 September 1994, two volcanoes erupted simultaneously and buried much of the town under a metre of ash. Rabaul has never fully rebuilt, and that half-buried, end-of-days quality is now one of its most compelling features.
Walking through what remains of the town today is an eerie experience. Buildings emerge from drifts of grey ash, roads run between walls of compacted volcanic debris, and the Tavurvur volcano still puffs and occasionally roars on the far side of the harbour. The old township of Kokopo, about 20 km along the coast, has taken over most commercial functions — but Rabaul itself retains its own strange gravity.
The harbour is exceptional for diving. Dozens of Japanese warships, aircraft, and submarines went down here during the Second World War, and the warm, clear water has turned them into extraordinary artificial reefs. The Simpson Harbour wrecks range from intact Zeros lying in shallow water to large transport ships at recreational depth. The Submarine Base wreck and the Manko Maru are among the most visited. Rabaul was a major Japanese base from 1942 to 1945, and the surrounding hills are riddled with Japanese tunnels — many still accessible and genuinely atmospheric. The still-smoking Tavurvur volcano can be reached by boat and on foot with a local guide.
The Duke of York Islands, a cluster of small islands in St George's Channel between New Britain and New Ireland, make an excellent day trip by boat. The islands are peaceful, the snorkelling is good, and the villages are welcoming.
Getting to Rabaul means flying into Tokua Airport, about 45 minutes from town. PNG Air and Air Niugini both connect Rabaul to Port Moresby and other PNG centres.