Sabtang Stone Village (Savidug / Chavayan)

The stone villages of Sabtang Island are the most striking architectural sight in Batanes. The vakul-wearing Ivatan women and the rows of traditional houses with their thick lime-rendered walls and deep cogon-grass roofs look like a village from several centuries ago — which, in a sense, they are. The stone and grass construction has changed little because it works: these houses have been surviving Pacific typhoons for generations. Several villages on Sabtang are well-preserved enough to be submitted for UNESCO World Heritage status.

The main villages to visit are Savidug and Chavayan on the island's east side, both reachable from Sabtang's small port. You can walk between them in about an hour along a road that skirts the coast. Savidug is the larger of the two and has a handful of small carinderias (local eateries) where you can eat simply. Chavayan is quieter and better preserved. Both are active communities, not open-air museums, so treat them with the respect you would give to any village where people actually live.

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A story
Ivatan stone houses are built to a design that has not changed fundamentally in centuries. The walls are of volcanic stone — sometimes a metre thick — and the roof is packed cogon grass layered over a timber frame. The grass insulates in winter and sheds rain in typhoon season. When a typhoon passes, some houses lose part of their roof and the Ivatan simply rethatch it. The house itself, with its thick stone walls, rarely takes structural damage. It is one of the oldest and most practical building traditions in the Pacific.

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