Eating Out

Pagadian cooks Cebuano-Filipino food with a coastal slant — grilled tuna belly, kinilaw (raw fish cured in vinegar and calamansi), and sinigang na isda (sour fish soup) are everywhere. The cheapest and best meals are at the carinderia stalls in and around the public market. For a sit-down dinner, head to the strip of restaurants along Rizal Avenue and around the rotonda, where mid-range Filipino chains share space with local seafood houses.

Don't leave without trying kakanin — sticky rice cakes wrapped in banana leaves — sold at little stands on every corner in the morning. Suman and puto are reliable picks, and a cup of strong sweet coffee from the same stall goes well with them.