Plaza Burgos, at the edge of the heritage zone, comes alive in the evenings with food stalls that are the most atmospheric — and cheapest — way to eat in Vigan. The specialty here is empanada Ilocana: a deep-fried pastry made with an orange-tinted rice flour shell, filled with grated green papaya, a whole egg, and slices of Vigan longganisa. They are cooked to order in large woks of oil and served with sukang Ilocos, the sharp local cane vinegar, on the side.
The stalls also sell okoy (crispy shrimp fritters), chicharon (fried pork rinds), and various grilled meats. A full meal of empanada, okoy, and something to drink costs almost nothing. The stall owners are fast and the turnover is constant, so the food arrives hot.
This is local eating in the most straightforward sense — the stalls are frequented by Vigan residents as much as tourists, particularly families in the evenings. Sit at the plastic tables set up on the plaza and watch the activity around you. It is one of the livelier corners of a town that can feel a little stage-managed in the heritage zone proper.