The Kandy Municipal Market, immediately behind the main bus stand, is a vibrant covered market selling fresh produce, spices, herbs, fish, meat, and a wide variety of prepared foods. This is where local families shop, not where tourists are taken, and the prices and atmosphere reflect that. The spice section alone — turmeric, cardamom, cinnamon, pepper, dried chilies in sacks — is worth the visit.
Go in the morning when the produce is freshest and the market most active. Bring small notes; the vendors rarely have change for large bills. The streets immediately surrounding the market have good street food: string hoppers, rotis, and short eats available from early morning.