Temple of the Tooth Relic (Sri Dalada Maligawa)

The Temple of the Tooth is Kandy's defining sight and one of the most sacred Buddhist temples in the world. The golden roof of the relic chamber is visible from across the lake, and the surrounding moat and fortified walls give the complex an appropriately royal weight — this was part of the Kandyan royal palace until the British took the city in 1815.

The tooth itself — said to be a relic of the Buddha — is housed inside a series of golden caskets and is never publicly displayed; what you see during puja ceremonies is the outer casket. The three daily puja ceremonies (at around 6am, 9:30am, and 6:30pm) are the best times to visit: drummers and flautists fill the outer courtyard with sound while devotees stream in carrying lotus flowers. The drumming at midnight is audible throughout the city center and wakes most visitors at least once.

Entry requires a modest fee (payable in cash) and appropriate dress — shoulders and knees covered. Camera access is permitted in most areas. Allow at least ninety minutes.

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A story
The tooth relic arrived in Sri Lanka in 371 CE, smuggled from India hidden in the hair of a princess — or so the chronicles say. Whoever controlled the relic controlled the right to rule the island. When the Portuguese captured Kandy in 1560 and reported burning the tooth in Goa, the Sinhalese court insisted the real relic had never left the temple. The tooth's political significance was so great that the question of whether the burned relic was genuine was, quite literally, a matter of state.