Lagman — a pulled noodle soup with lamb, peppers, tomatoes, and herbs — is one of the great dishes of Central Asia, and Dushanbe has excellent versions in the traditional restaurants around the bazaar quarter and Bokhtar Street. The noodles are pulled by hand to order; the broth is rich and aromatic. It's a substantial meal in itself.
Manti (large steamed dumplings filled with lamb and onion) and chuchvara (smaller boiled dumplings in broth) are equally good and available in similar establishments. These are lunch dishes primarily; most traditional restaurants serve them from about 11am until the supply runs out, typically mid-afternoon. Finding the best version means asking a local or following the lunchtime crowd.