The Rokhat Teahouse on Rudaki Avenue is one of the most celebrated chai-khanas (teahouses) in Central Asia. The interior is lavishly decorated with carved wooden columns, painted ceilings in traditional geometric patterns, and raised wooden platforms where you sit cross-legged on cushions. The architecture alone justifies a visit.
Order green or black tea, which arrives in a small pot with a bowl rather than a cup. The food — plov (rice dish), samsa (pastries), soups — is honest and reasonably priced. Come in the late afternoon when the light is good and the place fills with locals: businessmen, students, old men playing backgammon. One of the genuine pleasures of Dushanbe.