Ishak Pasha Palace

Ishak Pasha Palace is the most dramatic sight in eastern Turkey — an elaborate semi-ruined palace complex built between 1685 and 1784 on a rocky spur above Dogubeyazit, with the sweep of the Ararat plains below and the mountain itself behind. It was commissioned by the Çildiroglu dynasty, Kurdish chieftains who controlled this corner of the Ottoman empire, and combines Ottoman, Persian, Seljuk, and Armenian architectural elements in a way that reflects the crossroads nature of the region.

The palace had around 366 rooms — a legendary number, though the actual count is uncertain. The harem, mosque, tombs, and reception rooms are the most elaborately decorated. Restorations have been ongoing, with mixed results — the concrete additions of the 1990s are particularly regrettable — but even in its compromised state the palace is extraordinary. The views from the terrace across the plains to Mount Ararat at sunset are among the finest in Turkey. Admission is modest and the site is rarely overcrowded.

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The golden gate of Ishak Pasha Palace — one of the most elaborate doorways in Ottoman architecture — was removed by Russian troops during their occupation of the region in 1917 and taken to the Hermitage Museum in St. Petersburg, where it remains. The rough stone frame is still visible in the palace entrance, a reminder of what once stood there and of the upheavals this corner of Anatolia has endured.

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