Kars divides into two experiences: the city itself, with its Russian-era architecture, castle, cheese shops, and the Orhan Pamuk atmosphere of cold boulevards; and Ani, 45km east, which is one of the great ruined cities of the medieval world. Both reward time. The Eastern Express train from Ankara has made Kars newly fashionable with domestic Turkish tourists, so the city is livelier than it was even a decade ago.
The Ani ruins are the main reason to make the journey. Allow at least half a day at the site — more if you want to walk the full perimeter walls and reach the more remote structures.