Deira is the old commercial heart of Dubai, on the north side of the Creek. It is louder, denser, and more working-class than the glass-tower south: a tangle of narrow streets lined with Indian textile shops, Sri Lankan money exchanges, Iranian merchants, and the scent of spices drifting out of the souk. This is where the city's trade history is most alive.
The Gold Souk and Spice Souk anchor the western edge. Al Rigga and Al Wahda districts behind them are where much of the city's South Asian and Filipino population lives, and where you find the best cheap Indian and Filipino food. The waterfront along Baniyas Road — the old dhow wharves — is still busy with traditional wooden cargo boats loaded with goods destined for Iran and Pakistan.
story: > The abra water taxis that cross the Creek have been running the same route between Deira and Bur Dubai for well over a century. The fare is 1 AED (about 25 US cents) and has not changed in decades. It remains the most useful and characterful piece of public transport in the city.