The Huong Giang — Perfume River — flows through the centre of Hue in a slow, wide arc, giving the city much of its distinctive atmosphere. The name comes from wildflowers and herbs that grew along the upstream banks and gave the water a faint scent in the dry season. Today the river carries the usual traffic of a Vietnamese city waterway, but the light on the water at dawn and dusk remains extraordinary, and the broad sweep of the river framing the Citadel walls is one of the enduring images of Vietnam.
The classic way to visit the tombs and pagodas strung along the river's banks is by dragon boat. You can hire one at the south bank near the Truong Tien Bridge for a half-day trip that typically includes the Thien Mu Pagoda and one or two of the royal tombs — expect to pay around 150,000–200,000 VND for a two-hour charter for a small group. Independent motorbike travel along the south bank road gives more flexibility; the road is scenic and rarely busy. The best light for photography is in the early morning, when mist often hangs over the water and fishing boats move silently through the grey.