The four surviving towers of Po Nagar sit on a granite hill at the northern end of Nha Trang bay, overlooking the mouth of the Cai River. Built between the 7th and 12th centuries by the Cham civilisation, they are among the finest examples of Cham Hindu architecture in Vietnam — brick-built, with distinctive curvilinear towers, ornate carvings, and still-active shrines inside.
The complex is genuinely ancient and genuinely alive — not a dead archaeological site but a working place of worship. Remove shoes before entering the tower chambers, where you will find altars, incense, and occasional worshippers. The views over the river estuary and the bay from the hilltop are excellent. Go early to beat the tour groups, which descend from mid-morning.