Proud Mary is one of Melbourne's most serious coffee roasters, operating a cafe in Collingwood that treats espresso with the same intensity that a good wine bar treats its list. The single-origin offerings change seasonally, the baristas are knowledgeable and unhurried, and the roastery operates in the same building. It is a place for people who want to understand what they are drinking, not just consume it quickly.
The food is also good — brunch items that go beyond the standard Melbourne avocado-toast template and are worth having. Queues form on weekend mornings but move steadily. The space is large enough that finding a seat is rarely impossible. If you are trying to understand Melbourne's coffee culture, this is one of the best places to do it.