The western pass through the Rangiroa reef, where the open Pacific pours into the atoll lagoon twice daily on the incoming tide. The current is powerful enough to pull a diver effortlessly along the channel at several knots — this is drift diving at its finest.
Grey reef sharks congregate in the pass in numbers that would be alarming anywhere else; here they are simply part of the scenery. Manta rays, eagle rays, barracuda, and dense clouds of fish complete the picture. Several dive operators in Avatoru run morning and afternoon dives timed to the tidal flow. Snorkellers can do a gentler version from the rocks on the lagoon side when the current slackens.
The pass is a ten-minute walk or bike ride from the village centre.