Hagåtña is not Guam's restaurant capital — that role belongs to Tumon Bay, where most hotels and the largest concentration of restaurants sit. What the capital offers is a thinner but more local food scene: a few Chamorro places where you can try kelaguen (raw fish or chicken cured in lemon, coconut and onion), red rice cooked with achiote, and tinaktak (beef in coconut milk).
Look around the harbour and the Chamorro Village area on Wednesday evenings, when the open-air market sets up with food stalls, music and dancing — easily the best night to be in central Hagåtña. For a sit-down meal, a handful of restaurants near Plaza de España serve a mix of Chamorro and American fare; expect simple presentations and generous portions.